DUNSTER to: WHEDDON CROSS
An other superb twisty Exmoor road
Glencoe to: Glencoe
Throughout its length from Glasgow to Inverness the A82 is a joy. An A-road metelled for bikers - it doesn't so much change direction as gracefully sweep with a confident camber and no road furniture. It's almost as if you'd laid the tarmac yourself.
The bonnie bonnie banks of loch Lomond set the tone for the whole route as the road clings to the magnificent landscape. On through the splendour of Glencoe and past loch Ness (an opportunity to spot some of the more elusive wildlife such as Nessiteras rhombopterix) on to Forts William & Augustus - no boring straight Roman road here. Here you can see so far ahead it's unreal. There's nothing, absolutely nothing coming. Just breeze by and smile. During the summer the A82 is littered with Germans and the Scot's old ally the French. They come here in droves - well, cars and bikes. Perhaps they are overawed by the Alps and come here for scenery that's a bit less severe. Even with holiday traffic there's that sense of freedom, a feeling that simply glides you along this ride to remember.
The highpoint of the A82 is the stretch Bridge of Orchy, over Rannoch Moor through Glencoe to Ballachulish. Reverse the trip to double your pleasure. From the Bridge of Orchy the snaking black ribbon climbs rapidly as the Moor opens out before you. 1000 metre peaks fence in the vast, intimidating bog. Don't hang about as it could be Scotland's own Area 51. Lean and flow quicksilver across the elevated expanse of peat and rock. The Three Sisters wait to swallow you into fast approaching valley. As the sides begin to loom now you ease off. The roadside crash barriers give away the vital sign. Find your religon and pray to the great god Michelin as the clear opening bends invite you and your bike to shine. You're bathed in stunning landscape with heather, bracken and conifers partially clothing the huge great lumps of towering rock. Fresh mountain air and that immense feeling that the bike is part of the road. That big grin creeps over your face and sets hard.
This is perfect for that long get-away-from-it-all weekend. A chance to clear the lungs and recharge the head. Whether you're a bumbag or tank bag or full panier kit biker there's no problem finding a place to kip & scoff as the area is dotted with B&Bs, guest houses, hotels and hostels and of course - campsites. Grab petrol at any one of a number of modern or quaint stations. This is where they make Scotch Mist so check with Bill Giles first. The Ballachulish Hotel and The Kingshouse Hotel afford more comfort than most around here - and the Youth Hostel in Glencoe is spot on. The Clachaig Inn serves good food and decent ales - but won't serve Campbells!
In Glencoe stands a stone cross to commemorate the MacDonald's massacre by the Campbells. Down the road in South Ballachulish is a monument to James Stewart who was wrongly hanged for his alleged part in the massacre. If the tales of blood, guts and betrayal in the Visitor Centre don't put you off your food then head for the Fish & Chip caravan or local Spar. The Thunderace's brakes are tested just once as a deer bounded into the road - at least the flat cap in the Volvo is half predictable. After all this is sheep and deer country. It's also skiing country - either the dry or the snowy variety - we could try anything once. Whisky distilleries are scattered here and there to tempt you once the bike is tucked up safely.
Once you head has cleared the A82 has tributaries that each in turn lead to something special. And for my next trip... Wonder up to Ben Nevis or nip over the Corran Ferry to Strontian & Ardnamuchan? Twist down the A828 to Oban and perhaps a ferry to Ireland? Whistle up the A87 over the sea to Skye or catch the A830 to Mallaig? The strange roundabout at Ballachulish could prompt a few circles whilst you decide which way to go. Sod it! Let's go back up the glen just one more time.
GLASTONBURY to: TAUNTON
Good preparation route for getting up to Exmoor.
Ullapool to: Durness
I KNOW you will have a good time, just getting to Ullapool,however the best is yet to come.Heading out of the village the surface is none too clever on the twisties, so canny as you go until you get to Ardmair. From here the corners start to open out, and this really is as good as it gets,sweeping left,right past moor and mountain, pushing ever harder as your confidence grows.There are a couple of nasty off camber corners between Elphin (nice coffee shop )and Ledmore junction otherwise,no problem.
From ledmore to Skiag bridge the road west takes you past Jacobite castles,subterranean cave paintings,and the fantastic Ben More Assynt( for all you Munroeists ) Stop a while at Inchnadamph hotel,renowned for its traditional fare and comfortable surroundings, ensuring that the fab bar lunch does'nt interfere with your ability to take on the next bit.Onwards and upwards to Kylesku,this section climbs to around 1500 feet,and offers some peachy hairpin swithbacks,although you will struggle to keep your eyes on the job with mountains fighting for space at every turn.On gaining Kylesku bridge,the surface improves to racetrack levels,and off the bridge, the right,left twisties up from sea level are without a doubt the best you will ever see.
From here to Scourie the designer of this road ensured that modern technology could operate at its best,no off camber corners,fast sweepers,BIG straights,plenty of room and no-one to get in your way. Scourie to Durness is about 26 miles and is a mixed bag of single track and fast A road, just watch out for the sheep (bring wellies if you must !!!) Petrol can be bought at Ullapool,Scourie,Rhichonich and Durness. (A full circuit via Tongue,Lairg can also see the purchase of fuel in both these places).No super unleaded north of Ullapool though,sorry !! Police presence is minimal north of Ullapool, however there are stories circulating that they are using a Fireblade between Inverness and the bigger towns on the west coast,they do however have some seriously powerful cars available, and are not averse to sitting in the middle of no-where ,(at any time), in order to pull you, as you get the blade up to full chat.Dont bother running, as there is only one road up the west anyway. Have fun ,just remember its very remote up here and help can be a long way off, otherwise give it some, and then give it some more, cheers
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